Bearded Iris are easy perennials to grow. They need:
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A sunny location with at least one half day of sunlight.
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Ordinary garden soil with the addition of humus if the soil is heavy clay or very sandy. A fairly neutral soil is preferred. A too acid condition may be corrected by addition of agricultural lime.
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Good drainage is a must so that water does not puddle around the plants for any length of time. Raised beds are helpful in very heavy soils or poorly drained places.
How to Plant:
In July or August, prepare the soil by digging to a depth of 10 to 14 inches. In addition to humus, bone meal may be added. Well-aged manure is also helpful. After digging and mixing, water and let the ground settle before planting. For a compact effect, three rhizomes may be placed about 8 inches apart with the toes pointing inward. Otherwise, planting 18 to 24 inches apart is appropriate. The rhizome should be placed in firm contact with the soil with no air spaces under it. The roots should be spread out enough to go down and be completely buried or cut off completely. In light dry soils or in raised beds, up to en inch of soil may cover the rhizome, but in most situations, it is best to leave the top of the rhizome showing. The plantings are then watered and settled and kept moist but not soggy. The plants may be shaded for a few days, particularly when the weather is hot. It is safest, but not necessary, to wait about three weeks before applying chemical fertilizers.
Maintenance:
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Water: Established plants can tolerate some drought in midsummer (their semi-dormancy period). Rhizomes received in July or August can be left out of the ground in a cool shaded spot for several weeks without serious damage to subsequent growth and bloom. Otherwise, watering to keep the ground moist but not soggy is recommended. Watch for aphids while they are out of the ground!
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Fertilizer: For new planting, incorporate 6-20-20 or 15-15-15 into the soil at planting time. For existing ones, fertilize in September or when the rains start. Commercial fertilizer takes six weeks to activate and takes plenty of water to dissolve. On established plant, sprinkle the fertilizer around the plant, cultivate into the soil and water. Irises may do well the first year without fertilizing but in most soils, subsequent health and bloom are promoted by addition of a general garden fertilizer as indicated above. More nitrogen may be needed in soils which contain significant amounts of humus which is not well decomposed. Three times a year is recommended; right after bloom in late May. in September and again in late winter, about February. Liquid fertilizer such as Miracle Grow is effective for a quick use but must be used regularly.
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Cultivation: Aside from weeding, cultivate often but only lightly.
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Clean-up: old bloom stocks should be cut to within 2 inches from the rhizome. Cut back leaves only to remove brown or damage. Pull off leaves from the base only when they come off easily. Never tear leaves off as it subjects the plant to rot.
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Dividing: For most varieties, dividing every 3 or 4 years (in July and August) will prevent overcrowding. The rhizomes should be dug and cut apart, keeping only the new ones at the edge of the clump. Cut the green fans back to about 6 inches and trim the roots, leaving enough for good anchorage when transplanting. If desired, a clump may be renewed without digging up the whole thing, by cutting all of the old rhizomes out and enough of the new growth to eliminate crowding.
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Leaf Spot is a fungus condition aggravated by overhead watering and rain. It appears as brown spots on the leaves. Beginning in early spring, regular spraying package directions, will alleviate this problem. As the spores drop to the ground, be sure to spray the area around the irises.
Isaiah 40:8
The grass withers and the flowers fade, but the Word of our God stands forever.
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